Baruntse is one of the beautiful 7,000m snow peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal. It is also one of the few peaks of this height with a high rate of success of ascent on normal route. The approach to the mountain follows the Mera Peak trek up to Mera La and then to Baruntse base camp. (5,250m).
Normally, we establish two camps above the base camp in climbing Baruntse. The camp I is set up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m and the camp II is on the South – East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. From the camp I, we cross East Col. and descend down through steep slopes. We then traverse a large snow plateau and move towards the bottom of the South – East Ridge. We then move through steeping slopes of the ridge to a small col, the site of the camp II at the height of 6,420m. From camp II, we climb steep snow slopes (45 degrees) and frequently pass a series of short steep steps of ice and snow until we reach the west side of the ridge. Then we passed through short sections of rock scrambling which leads to a marked cleft and ice cliff and getting over these leads to the easy and broader slopes and finally, to 7,129m, the summit. The descend is by the same route.